Sketches From A Traveller's Journal.

out my hands from under my leafy shelter to revel in their Avelconie coolness , I laved my burning brow , and indulged in deep draughts of the pure fresh element , fallow delicious it all was ? But as hour after hour passed by , and fche rain continued to fall with constantly increasing force , a change began to come over my impression , Avhich

Avas completed when , after a time , the rain , failing to find rapid enough entrance into the ground , lay ou its surface in floods , and formed cataracts in every gully , one of which happening to lead our Avay , Avell ni gh deluged us with sand and Avater . Hurriedl y gathering up our effects , AA'e crept closer to the trunk of our tree , Avhose swelling root rose like

an islet above the level . But that Avas of little avail , for the next moment a yet heaA'ier torrent of rain penetrating our tree , sent down upon us its accumulations , in such a succession of waterspouts , that we fled oufc into the open rain . Never were poor travellers in a worse predicament . Around us iu thick blinding sheets , like Avails of movingwater , tho fierce tropical rain , which does not visit the land

more than once in a twelvemonth , came dashing down with almost incredible force and volume ; beating down tlie branches of the trees , and tearing the leaves from their stems ; Avhile wo stood exposed in the midst and looked vainly round , for tho slightest shelter . And rain being so rare in those regions , like fche generality of horse travellers ,

we had made no provision against it . Never , after the longest and hottest day ' s travel , had my little guide lost his buoyancy ; butfnow , Avrapped in his dripping blanket , he looked the most disconsolate being possible , and the baboon traits , iu their most pitiful aspect , came out strongly and sadly in his dark broAvn face .

Day at length broke , but still the rain continued to fall in the same blinding torrents , until it seemed us if the very windows of heaven were opened . It was no good standing still for the rain to beat upon , and Henrick , Avho had seated himself on a broken off branch , Avith his hands clasping his knees , was too wretched to ask counsel of , so I began to search about , keeping within sight of certain landmarks , if some shelter , however partial , mi ght not be found .

For some time my efforts only resulted in the discovery of two or three half ruined ant hills , whose hollows wore full of water . At length on the slightly elevated ground , surrounding ii rocky hill , I AVUS fortunate enough to find two boulclcrlike rocks lying close together , the space beneath whoso joining was to windward filled with earth , but to

lec-Avnrd hollowed out into a cavity , which had apparently been at some time the lair of a large wild animal . Notwithstanding- all the rain , the inner part was perfectly dry , and I became convinced that by stretching our already Avct blankets across the top , so as to extend the roofj ii comfortable shelter could be formed . Without a moment ' s

delay I brought Henrick to the spot , but he would not hear of entering the cavity , and entreated that I ivould not either , lest snakes mi ght bo lurking in it . However , I was resolved to venture anything rather than remain in the rain , and as fortune is said to favour the brave , I escaped unscathed , in what ivtis probably a somcAvhat hazardous attempt .

Our new quarters afforded , not only space for ourselves , but a dry lodgment for the packs . We Avere of course unable to light a fire to prepare a little coffee , but we had a bit of springbok , cooked tho previous evening , which we did not despise because it had been Avell washed ivith rain . Afterwards a cigar helped to make us more comfortable , and

Henrick so fur recovered his spirits that , inspired by his late snake fear , he enlivened the remainder of the day by a series of the most hideous and fearful reptile anecdotes it AVUS ever my lot to hear . The same wild pelting rain Avas the first sound that met our ears next morning , and our oyes Avere greeted by a country Avell nigh submerged ; every one of whose ravines AV ; IS filled with a raging torrent , surging and foaming , down to the nearest river , laden with branches and uptorn shrubs .

and many small animals and birds . Hapjnly for us , our den continued dry ; and safely ensconced ivithin its shelter I had leisure to pity the poor horses , Avhich stood huddled together under the lee of a bush , with the Avater reaching nearly to their fetlocks , and grace enough to eat contentedly my scanty allowance of maize flavoured Avith the acid leaves of

au elephant cabbage tree that greAV close at hand . The third morning broke bright and beautiful , not a speck of vapour flecked the clear blue sky . With the rapid vegetation of the tropics , the green grass Avas already S 2 > rmging through the withered herbage , and the birds in the trees sang rejoicingly in the returning sunshine . The pnly vestige remaining of the recent storm Avas the still SAVollen and

surging Avatercourses and rivers , Avhich Avere the occasion of much delay and difficulty to us in fording thern , during the next few days . MeauAvhile , as wo progressed yet farther north , the country grew wilder and more beautiful , rising into loftier and more picturesque hills , and spreading into broader and ( thanks to

the recent rains ) greener plateaus , glowing Avitli tho most splendid floAvering shrubs and bulbs . The blossoming and sweet scented acacia waved its feathery foliage in light groups or singly oi'er the plains ; huge chandelier lilies , like croAvns of sapphires , rose proudly erect , and gigantic bloodred flags covered broad tracts of ground as Avith the presence

of a reposing army . Then came Avhole forest tangles of variegated geraniums , and streams bordered with the spotless blossoms of the beautiful African arum , dividing heights crested with Avaving palm trees , and hedged round with glossy leaves and floAvering myrtles and laurels , until the Avhole land resembled a blooming garden .

It Avas yet early on ono of our day ' s journeys Avhen AVO entered a large A'alley , Avatercd by one of the most considerable streams wo had lately seen . The slopes were covered with patches of groAving maize , indicating human vicinity , and along the river banks were congregated a vast number of rounded mud erectionsmore resembling huge aut hills

, than the dwellings of human beings , however barbarous . It was , however , a large kraal , or Kafir city , and out of it poured a dense pojmlatioii of tall muscular black men , aud robust black Avomcn , followed by troops of dusky children , all eager to behold the new comers .

The clothing of these people was equally primitive ivith their abodes , being of undressed sheepskin , and , judging by appearances , they were worn as long as they would hold together . Of course , us in more civilized communities , dress improved with social position ; the principal men of the savage city sported newer sheepskins and indulged in more

ornaments than the ordinary Kafir ; and the prime minister of the cliiefj a huge brawny Kafir , ivas not only wrapped in a karosse , or mantle of buffalo hide , but his limbs wore almost hidden in bands of scarlet and amber beads . But it was the chief himself who bore off the palm , both for dress and personal appearance . Despite his ebony skin

, and the flatfish nose , and broad prominent mouth—characteristic of his race—he was really a striking and picturesque looking person . His tall erect form , reaching some inches above six feet in hei ght , folded in his karosse of brilliant leopardskin—which ho wore in token of his chieftainship—and the glittering ornaments crowding neckearsarmsand ancles

, , , , many of them of solid silver , and one or two ei'en of gold , gave him an imposing air . But Tykee was a great chief of the ivide spread family of tho Amakosa , and not only Avere the surrounding hills covered Avith his immense flocks and herds , but the property of his followers or subjects , numbering several thousands , Avas really

his , since he could appropriate it on tho slightest pretext—a power of which , it was said , that in common with other Kafir potentates , he was not slow to avail himself . And his people submitted as men do Ai'hen their sovereign ' s power is for life oi- death also . All savage , as ho AVUS , tlie chief possessed a good deal of