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  • Dec. 1, 1876
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The Masonic Magazine, Dec. 1, 1876: Page 63

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Page 63

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Paris Restaurants.

PARIS RESTAURANTS .

WE take the following interesting account from the Pall Mall Gazette : — For once or twice that one has spent at week or ten days in Paris , how often is one not assailed with the question , "Which do you consider to be the best restaurant ? " or

, "Where do you advise us to breakfast ?" or dine , as the case may be . These are questions easier asked than answered ; and the larger is one ' s experience of Paris restaurants , the more diffidence one must feel in making reply . Not because there is any lack

of places to which the average Englishman may be recommended in the full belief that his wants will be supplied , but because it is so difficult to decide between their conflicting claims . To a friend , whose idiosyncrasies are familiar to one and to whose

tastes one has already ministered , it is easy to say , go to this restaurant or to that ; but when one does not know whether the questioners' special fancy lies in the direction of

fish , made dishes , game or sweets , so far as solids are concerned , or in the direction of claret , burgundy , or champagne , in regard to wines , the responsibility becomes almost oppressive . But a few general rules may nevertheless be laid down , adherence to

which will ensure any visitor to Paris a good dinner at a minimum of say 20 f . Let him go to the Cafe Anglais , upon the Boulevard des Italiens ; to the Cafe Riche , almost opposite to it ; to the Cafe Foy , commonly called " Bignon ' s" also upon the Boulevard

, des Italiens , at the corner of the Chaussee d'Antin ; to Durand ' s , opposite the Madeleine ; to the Cafe Voisin , at the corner of the Rue St . Honore aud the Rue de Luxembourg ; or to Brcbant ' s , otherwise known as Vachette ' son the Boulevard

, Montmarte . With the most elementary knowledge of the art of dining and with the merest smattering of French , it will go hard with him if he does not emerge from either of these restaurants with the firm

determination to come there again . Each of them of course , ha 3 , its speciality , and those who are aware of the fact are not slow to avail themselves of their knowled ge . The Cafe Anglais , for instance , justly prides itself upon its cellar ; and those who are fortunate enough to possess the friendshi p of "Ernest "

have doubtless been conducted b y that functionary into the spacious vaults where repose vintages which are not to be gotten for gold at the greatest of wine merchants . Another speciality of the Cafe Anglais is the " pomme de terre a l'ananas" a dish

, which can only be appreciated to perfection when it succeeds or accompanies a " filet de bceuf Chateaubriand . " A Russian salad is also one of the dishes to be eaten at the Cafe Anglais . At the Caf 6 Riche the wines are also very excellentfor the proprietor is

him-, self a large grower of Burgundy , and he caters for the Socief e des Agriculteurs de France , whose monthly dinners are not b y any means to be despised . Members of this society enjoy the privilege of breakfasting at the Cafe Riche for 3 f ., and of dining

there for twice that sum , aud they are not slow to avail themselves of it—for they would pay for the some meal elsewhere more than three times that price . It is said that the French do not know how to cook game ; but assuredly the " perdrix aux choux" has

a charm all its own , and nowhere is better cooked than at the Cafe Riche , which always has a reserved celebrity for its " spoume " a sort of ice pudding in layers ,

with a centre of apricot-kernels and pistachio nuts . At Voisin ' s , as at the Cafe Anglais , the wine is of peculiar excellence . This is one of the few places at which Chateau-Margaux of 1848 can be drankone may order it almost anywhere—and the same restaurant also possesses the best

growths of Pontet Canet , a wine which , though only ranked in the fifth class is one of the most improved of clarets since Vhe vinyards where it is grown changed hands some 15 years ago . Those whose tastes lie in the direction of dry champagne can ask

for the " Bellenger Sec " which is sold at this establishment ; and among the dishes in which Voisin ' s chef excels may be noted red mullet a \ a bordelaise and roast saddle of lamb or of mutton . In the opinion of many good judgesBignon ' s and Durand ' s

, are better as breakfasting than as dinner places ; though for the matter of that , he would be a fortunate man who was condemned to dine at either of them for the term of his natural life . At the same time it must be said that their breakfasts are by

mere force of fashion in most demand . Durand with his " oeufs a la cocotte " and his Chateau d'Yquem , and Bignon with

“The Masonic Magazine: 1876-12-01, Page 63” Masonic Periodicals Online, Library and Museum of Freemasonry, 11 May 2025, django:8000/periodicals/mmg/issues/mmg_01121876/page/63/.
  • List
  • Grid
Title Category Page
Untitled Article 1
Monthly Masonic Sumnary. Article 2
SOME FURTHER REMARKS ON THE EXTRACTS FROM THE SHEFFIELD CHAPTER OF PARADISE MINUTE BOOKS.* Article 3
FATHER FOY ON SECRET SOCIETIES. Article 5
PRINCE BOLTIKOFF: Article 12
A VOICE IN NATURE. Article 16
"THE ALBURY MS."AN ANALYSIS. Article 18
AN OLD, OLD STORY. Article 22
TWO SIDES. Article 24
SOCIAL PROBLEMS AND THEIR PEACEFUL SOLUTION. Article 26
THE WOMEN OF OUR TIME. Article 30
GERARD MONTAGU; Article 32
THE ENCHANTED ISLE OF THE SEA. Article 35
CONTEMPORARY LETTERS ON THE FRENCH REVOLUTION. Article 37
LOVE YOUR NEIGHBOUR. Article 39
RETURN OF THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION. Article 40
A MEMORY. Article 41
DURHAM CATHEDRAL. Article 42
TRIFLES. Article 45
OLD GREGORY'S GHOST: Article 45
FURNESS ABBEY. Article 49
THE DAYS TO COME. Article 50
GRUMBLE NOT, BROTHER. Article 51
THE ORIGIN AND REFERENCES OF THE HERMESIAN SPURIOUS FREEMASONRY. Article 51
A Review. Article 54
FREEMASONRY! Article 59
POETS' CORNER. Article 59
PARIS RESTAURANTS. Article 63
MASONIC CENTENNIAL SONG. Article 65
THE MASONIC PHILOSOPHY. Article 65
FREEMASONRY IN FRANCE. Article 67
LOST. Article 70
AN ESSAY ON EPITAPHS. Article 71
A PARABLE. Article 74
ADDRESS OF P.G.M. BRO. HON. RICHARD VAUX, AT CENTENNIAL OF AMERICAN UNION LODGE. Article 75
SHORT IS THE WAY. Article 76
ADDRESS OF THE GRAND MASTER, J. H. GRAHAM, L.L.D., &c. Article 77
A PAGE FROM LIFE'S BOOK. Article 81
Correspondence. Article 82
REUNION. Article 85
ADDRESS OF THE V. H. AND E. SIR KT. COL. W. J. B. MACLEOD MOORE, OF THE GRAND CROSS OF THE TEMPLE, GRAND PRIOR OF THE DOMINION OF CANADA, Article 86
MASONRY EVERYWHERE. Article 93
NOTES ON LITERATURE, SCIENCE AND ART. Article 93
ARE THE CHILDREN AT HOME. Article 97
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Page 63

Note: This text has been automatically extracted via Optical Character Recognition (OCR) software.

Paris Restaurants.

PARIS RESTAURANTS .

WE take the following interesting account from the Pall Mall Gazette : — For once or twice that one has spent at week or ten days in Paris , how often is one not assailed with the question , "Which do you consider to be the best restaurant ? " or

, "Where do you advise us to breakfast ?" or dine , as the case may be . These are questions easier asked than answered ; and the larger is one ' s experience of Paris restaurants , the more diffidence one must feel in making reply . Not because there is any lack

of places to which the average Englishman may be recommended in the full belief that his wants will be supplied , but because it is so difficult to decide between their conflicting claims . To a friend , whose idiosyncrasies are familiar to one and to whose

tastes one has already ministered , it is easy to say , go to this restaurant or to that ; but when one does not know whether the questioners' special fancy lies in the direction of

fish , made dishes , game or sweets , so far as solids are concerned , or in the direction of claret , burgundy , or champagne , in regard to wines , the responsibility becomes almost oppressive . But a few general rules may nevertheless be laid down , adherence to

which will ensure any visitor to Paris a good dinner at a minimum of say 20 f . Let him go to the Cafe Anglais , upon the Boulevard des Italiens ; to the Cafe Riche , almost opposite to it ; to the Cafe Foy , commonly called " Bignon ' s" also upon the Boulevard

, des Italiens , at the corner of the Chaussee d'Antin ; to Durand ' s , opposite the Madeleine ; to the Cafe Voisin , at the corner of the Rue St . Honore aud the Rue de Luxembourg ; or to Brcbant ' s , otherwise known as Vachette ' son the Boulevard

, Montmarte . With the most elementary knowledge of the art of dining and with the merest smattering of French , it will go hard with him if he does not emerge from either of these restaurants with the firm

determination to come there again . Each of them of course , ha 3 , its speciality , and those who are aware of the fact are not slow to avail themselves of their knowled ge . The Cafe Anglais , for instance , justly prides itself upon its cellar ; and those who are fortunate enough to possess the friendshi p of "Ernest "

have doubtless been conducted b y that functionary into the spacious vaults where repose vintages which are not to be gotten for gold at the greatest of wine merchants . Another speciality of the Cafe Anglais is the " pomme de terre a l'ananas" a dish

, which can only be appreciated to perfection when it succeeds or accompanies a " filet de bceuf Chateaubriand . " A Russian salad is also one of the dishes to be eaten at the Cafe Anglais . At the Caf 6 Riche the wines are also very excellentfor the proprietor is

him-, self a large grower of Burgundy , and he caters for the Socief e des Agriculteurs de France , whose monthly dinners are not b y any means to be despised . Members of this society enjoy the privilege of breakfasting at the Cafe Riche for 3 f ., and of dining

there for twice that sum , aud they are not slow to avail themselves of it—for they would pay for the some meal elsewhere more than three times that price . It is said that the French do not know how to cook game ; but assuredly the " perdrix aux choux" has

a charm all its own , and nowhere is better cooked than at the Cafe Riche , which always has a reserved celebrity for its " spoume " a sort of ice pudding in layers ,

with a centre of apricot-kernels and pistachio nuts . At Voisin ' s , as at the Cafe Anglais , the wine is of peculiar excellence . This is one of the few places at which Chateau-Margaux of 1848 can be drankone may order it almost anywhere—and the same restaurant also possesses the best

growths of Pontet Canet , a wine which , though only ranked in the fifth class is one of the most improved of clarets since Vhe vinyards where it is grown changed hands some 15 years ago . Those whose tastes lie in the direction of dry champagne can ask

for the " Bellenger Sec " which is sold at this establishment ; and among the dishes in which Voisin ' s chef excels may be noted red mullet a \ a bordelaise and roast saddle of lamb or of mutton . In the opinion of many good judgesBignon ' s and Durand ' s

, are better as breakfasting than as dinner places ; though for the matter of that , he would be a fortunate man who was condemned to dine at either of them for the term of his natural life . At the same time it must be said that their breakfasts are by

mere force of fashion in most demand . Durand with his " oeufs a la cocotte " and his Chateau d'Yquem , and Bignon with

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